Ribera del Duero, Rioja, and Madrid

Ribera del Duero and Rioja

We stayed at Burgos and used it as a base to explore the wine regions of Rioja and Ribera del Duero. Although in the end it worked well, it may be a better idea to split this into two different trips, since the distance between Burgos and the closest point of either destination is at least 1 hour. In addition, and to really enjoy each destination, it is necessary to stay at least one week on each location.

Hotel Landa. The Hotel Landa, just outside Burgos, is exceptional. It is a Castle that has been renovated with the best possible taste, combining Gothic architecture with the most modern amenities. Rooms are very spacious and service is incomparable. Breakfast is wonderful and fresh, and the wine list is very good. Very highly recommended as a destination in itself.

Abadia Retuerta Le Domaine (Sardon del Duero). The winery at Abadia Retuerta Le Domaine is now part of Relais et Chateaux, and includes a boutique hotel, a formal restaurant, a bistrot, and of course the winery itself. We visited the vineyards and winery, an exceptional combination of old fashion methods with the most modern technology to enhance efficiencies. We had lunch at the bistrot, and enjoyed the excellent wine, the fantastic menu with local fresh fare (Castillian specialties), and exquisite service. The abbey has been renovated wonderfully! Throughout the service is as good as it gets. Very highly recommended.

Tinto Pesquera. The wines built by Alejandro Fernandez are among the best in the world. Touring the winery is a unique experience that helps understand what true love for both wine and perfection is. The story itself is magnificent, from humble starts with only one goal in sight: to make the best possible wine. Today, the lines of Alejandro Fernandez (Pesquera, Condado de Haza, Dehesa La Granja, and El Vínculo) are among the best in the world, and for the price, the best possible values. The tour of the winery is strongly recommended.

Vega Sicilia. Obviously among the 5 best wines of the world, legendary, almost mythological! Do anything you can to get in. Once there, kiss the soil.

Restaurante Marqués de Riscal (El Ciego). We visited the winery and had lunch at the One Michelin Star restaurant. The red wine is of course quite good, although the white is undrinkable because of its metallic taste. The visit to the winery is yet another mass tourism experience, with buses and hordes of people asking really stupid questions….

The restaurant is good although they are going to have to work very hard to keep the Star. The tasting menu is delightful, with a sequence of twelve dishes honoring the region. Nothing out of the ordinary for this type of experience, however, in which “fusion” dominates and becomes commonplace. Service was attentive and correct, but there were too many details out of place… dirty menus… nervous waiters watching over you… people cleaning around the corner…. etc. Not sure if we would recommend it.

Asador Restaurante El Molino de Palacios (Peñafiel). This was quite a find! It is an old mill, transformed into a family restaurant with a lot of charm and a bit on the kitsch side, to be expected into such provincial and out of the way setting. Nevertheless, service was very correct and the food was extraordinary. This is real food, honest, unpretentious! Gambas al Ajillo the way they should be, amazing cuts of meat cooked just right, and a wine list with dozens of local “Riberas” that can be the envy of the best restaurants in Paris. Lots of energy and full of locals at lunch. Highly recommended, look for it.

Madrid

Hotel Ritz de Madrid. It continues to be the old fashioned, grand establishment in which you basically move into heaven as soon as you check in. Of course it can benefit from a renovation, but frankly we prefer it the way it is. Perhaps there are places with more modern bathrooms… but there is absolutely nowhere in Madrid with this address, level of service, or taste. Do yourself a favor and stay there at least once in your lifetime. And don’t be intimidated by the stuffy attitude of the concierges, they are there at your service so use them and just remember that you are their boss!

Restaurante de la Terraza (Hotel Ritz). The Ritz Terrace has what is probably the best setting in Madrid. Every detail adds to a magic experience: the lighting, white cloth on the tables properly starched, table settings, service, wine list, and of course the food itself. Make sure to get a reservation, and dress formally (jacket and tie). Enjoy one of the most enchanted places on earth.

Salamanca y Madrid (Junio 2011)

Combinamos visitas a Salamanca y Madrid con el viaje a Portugal (ver el blog aparte).

En Salamanca nos alojamos en el Castillo del Buen Amor que queda en las afueras de la ciudad. Es un autentico castillo del siglo IX, renovado a estandares modernos pero sin mayores lujos (esta clasificado como de 4 estrellas). La construccion es magnifica y las habitaciones tienen paredes muy anchas con lo cual el silencio durante la noche es sepulcral. La infraestructura se presta para eventos excepcionales como bodas y congresos por su gran caracter e historia, y que parece parado en el tiempo. El restaurante puede mejorar ya que tiene el potencial que le otorga este lugar magnifico y unico. Con una atencion mas esmerada y una comida de mayor sofisticacion, el Restaurante del Castillo del Buen Amor podria convertirse en un destino en si. Recomendamos el Castillo para pasar al menos una noche para experimentar sus encantos medievales.

En Madrid nos alojamos en el Gran Melia Fenix, que pretende ser un hotel a la altura del Ritz o del Palace, pero esta muy lejos de serlo. Los cuartos son minusculos, la clientela masiva, y la atencion esmerada pero mediocre. El desayuno cuesta 28.5 Euros por persona y aunque es variado, los ingredientes son de mala calidad y les falta frescura. Lo unico rescatable es el bar de la Terraza. No caigan en el error de alojarse ahi.

Como llegamos a Madrid tarde la primera noche, no nos quedo otra alternativa que preguntar al Conserje del "Gran" Melia por un restaurante "cercano, simpatico, y no muy caro." Nos recomendo "La Terraza del Espejo," un lugar muy bien ubicado (al centro del Paseo de la Castellana), y con una construccion de estilo "Belle Epoque," y con terrazas excelentemente ubicadas. Grave error. El servicio patetico, los precios caros, y la comida deplorable. Un "tourist trap" en su maxima expresion Iberica, al cual caimos como principiantes....

Felizmente, decidimos ir al Escorial y almorzamos en el Celebre Charoles (c/ Floridablanca 24 - 28200 San Lorenzo de El Escorial, Madrid). La terraza es acogedora, amplia, con decoracion sobria, sillas comodas, y manteles de tela. El interior es exquisito y algo de no perderse en otra epoca del año. El servicio es caballeroso, correcto y erudito. Los platos son Espanoles clasicos, sin pretenciones de modernidad ni fusiones, pero hechos a la perfeccion. El enorme solomillo de Illuminata fue tan perfecto como El Escorial, a punto que se lo comio todo! Ademas, el Chef nos regala aperitivos y Pousse-Cafes... Sin dudas, es este un restaurante tradicional, sin pretenciones, pero de primer nivel. No se lo pierdan cuando visiten el Escorial.

En conclusion, hay sitios en Espana como Catalunya en donde se come exquisitamente bien (ver blog aparte); pero no es tan facil encontrarlos en Madrid o Salamanca. Seguiremos buscandolos....

Salvador e Illuminata